#sustainableproject#Process
This is the second part of my sustainable journey, in this blog, I would focus on the techniques that I learned. I am not professional, obviously, so you can have a look and get the general ideas of the techniques, and do deeper research as you wish! And I am learning as well so feel welcome to leave your thought or recommendations to me and we could grow as designers :)
Let's talk about Techniques
TR Cutting
What is it?
Transformational Reconstruction Cutting is an advanced technique founded by Japanese designer Shingo Sato.
"TR technique is a more intuitive, organic design process than the conventional +1/-1 mathematical based pattern cutting systems you may be used to. TR technique allows through trial and error, the discovery of chanced-upon happy mistakes.
By trying to figure out tricky design combinations, or by alternating your vantage points you can serendipitously arrive at unforeseen creative solutions or even more Avant-Garde destinations than were originally foreseen"
You can have a look at their official Facebook and sign up for a master class up to your interest. But notice that you would need a mannequin for this technique as you will need to figure out how to work out the pattern on the bodice.
Welcome - The Shapes of Fabric ( alternate useful guide)
How does this work?
Keyword: Experiment
So what I learned was to use the basic bodice and skirt block ( with darts), put on the mannequin, and let your creativity flies. The basic rule of TR cutting is to draw lines passing through the bust point on the mannequin.
I find this technique requires quite precision to master, the technique is considered a form of dart manipulation and it is more technical based but once you got the basics, the possibilities are endless.
Variations include Origami Bamboo Technique, Vortex Technique, 3D cutting, and others.
Subtraction cutting
What is it?
This is the technique created by Julia Roberts, “Subtraction Cutting” makes the most of the negative spaces that can be opened up in fabric and fall somewhere between traditional pattern making and drape resulting in experimental garments that break the boundaries of the usual garment shapes.
“Subtraction cutting is DESIGNING WITH PATTERNS, rather than creating patterns with designs”
You can find more information over here:
How does this work?
You will need the front and back Bodice or Front and Back skirt block, (without darts) and a circle. First, you will need 'a a blanket' - soft materials are easier to work with, the usual measurement would be 150x150. Sew 2 layers together and lay flat on the table
With the blocks prepared, place either the bodice or skirt onto the fabric blanket. The trick is the placement of the blocks. This determines the volume of the fabric.
I really like this technique, it is just fun to work with all the volumes and play with the pattern placements, you won't know what coming because every time is different, but that is the cool thing about this technique: Discovery!
Of course, it is nerve-wracking working with real fabrics instead of toiles but you know fashion sometimes is about being spontaneous and fun.
Zero Waste
What is it?
As the name suggested, 'Zero Waste' is the technique of draping or drafting that is created with the purpose of minimizing fabric wastes. If you are into sustainable fashion. you know how much textile wastes that the industry is producing every year.
When textiles are wasted, so are natural and human labor resources, because behind those beautiful fabrics are the whole process from taking fiber from plants that use soil and water, as a bare minimum to being weaved, dyed, and dried, not to mention, there were involved of chemical used in the process; which all in all, is harmful to the environment.
While we can believe that textile will be developed to be more friendly to the environment, from its production to the end of its lifetime, the process takes quite some time to explore and bring to custom, and professionals are working on it. But time is not on our side, so in the meantime, Zero Waste is introduced as a solution to the production process, this technique challenges the designer to save as many fabrics used as possible. Not easy, lots of trials and explorations but it is fun and that is what fashion, ultimately is all about.
Fashion has been on a circle trend for long enough, why don't just add some spices from our times to make a remark?
How does this work?
This is a bit tricky, to begin with, you can either start with draping or drafting, while draping gives some hard time deciding on the next move to ensure the least wastes, drafting challenges your pattern making and measurement precision to fit the pattern onto the fabrics, but remember you could always turn wastes into something exciting such as jewelry with a help of resin or collecting scarps, layered with base fabric and sew on top ( almost like quilting)
Check out these sources:
My workshop attempt: There is still leftover "waste", but this can be used as another detail on the garment, like an additional patch pocket. So make use of all the scraps.
Upcycling - Deconstruction
What is it?
It is so common to hear the term " Upcycling", "Thrift", with video pops up everywhere from Tiktok to Instagram, that I think you would understand the definition of this technique. It is basically breaking down/ taking parts of your old/used clothes/objects and turning them into new/ more exciting pieces of clothing/ bags/ accessories/ objects. This is an alternative to reduce the number of wastes from items being thrown out every day and a hack to save some shopping money. There are so many interesting ways to level up your worn clothes and it is all within your capabilities.
There are so many videos teaching about recycling clothes, bags, and accessories and so many upcoming brands to note. My suggestions:
How does this work?
I used this technique in my collection, just because it is the most suitable, it takes quite some time to dig through the second-hand store but it is such a cool experience cause you never know what kind of gem you would find. Taking out the finished pieces and piecing them up requires time as well, but anything good must require a bit of patience and a bit of thinking and the outcome is fabulous so long as you put your thought into the process. Check out my short video about the process behind my collection, where I showed a bit of how I upcycled those second-hand jeans.
These are the techniques that I learned, I think it is such an advanced and fun way to play around with fashion, breaking from the basic rules that you already had, you could challenge all your creativity using these methods, doesn't matter how many you use, just have fun and find you yourself amazed with the outcomes.
Give it a go by experimenting yourself or research deeper into the topics and let me know which is your favorite in the comments bellow
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