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Mar 11, 20236 min read

Fashion Show: A Comprehensive Overview

In this post, let’s discuss how the fashion show was, how is going, and what is awaited in the future!

It all started in 1860s, in Paris with Charles Frederick Worth. The English fashion designer who instead of mannequins, used live models to present his creations. The news caught up fast and by the 20th century, London and New York ‘fashion parades’ were presented. But those events were only made for buyers and elites. No photographs were ever made for the first 30 years, in fear of stealing ideas from one to another.

(Image: Charles Frederick Worth)

World War II came and had the designers change their attitudes, welcoming more audiences to the ‘parades’, for exposure, fame, and better financial resources. The fashion industry was on the rise, and more and more people were interested to obtain the latest pieces. By 1918, we got our first scheduled fashion show, to avoid the clash among fashion houses and give the elites and buyers time to plan their arrivals. The fashion shows were now twice a year, often in hotels or department stores, these were the headers for the current Fashion Week.

( Image: Christain Dior with six of his models after a fashion parade)


The Great Depression happened and led to a decline in products and sales among houses, and by 1943, a fashion publicist named Eleanor Lambert organized several shows at The Pierre hotel in Manhattan, New York City. And that was the start of The Fashion Week, followed by Milan (1958), Paris (1973), and London (1984) showcasing in February and September.


Image: New York Fashion Press Week, 1949

Did you know?

(Image: Postcard advertisement listing eight cities and towns where Dewachter Frères offered "ready-to-wear clothes and by measure for men and children", c. 1885)


Ready to wear actually first appeared in 1868 when the Dewatcher brothers opened their department store offering men’s clothes in a series of pre-made sizes for a lower price. But that was menswear; womenswear, on a couture level, was harder to duplicate due to the complexity of the garments.


Not until almost another decade passed by, did we actually see the changes in womenswear’s couture. And the changes were first made by a woman name Nina Ricci- an Italian-born French designer, who made her way into the couture in 1932, and indeed she changed the game. She brought the gap of couture close to the upper middle class while still maintaining high standards. She was also one of the first in Paris, to have two 'intermediary' collections a year, showing two weeks before major fashion houses presented their showcases; for young women, which required fewer fittings and at a lower cost. Needless to say, she was well respected by her customers.

(Image: 1948- Dress designer Madame Nina Ricci on the right, casting a critical eye at a mannequin whom she has draped with material to make an instant dress | Source: Getty)



The 1960s was the ‘official’ period of “Pret-a-porter” (or ready-to-wear). This was a massive turn for the industry, and setting the trend was the one and only Yves Saint Laurent, who launched his own line of ready-to-wear clothes in the Rive Gauche boutique. It was revolutionary, the idea of purchasing and wearing high-end clothes on the same day. Soon, brands started to follow; Chanel staged its first ready-to-wear show in 1978, London in 1984, and New York had its version in 1993.

Image: January 29, 1962 Yves Saint Laurent’s first collection

Fast forward to today, fashion shows are now annual highly anticipated events where the main concentration is not only on the newest collections but also on the people and the settings. It is a creative space for emerging designers to present themselves, a medium for major fashion houses to show their power, and a social place for celebrities, influencers, and media. News is updated every single minute and looks worn by models or famous people are hot topics for days. And the showcases, whether is the background (places), the garments, the music, the guests, the designers, etc… are discussed on a much wider scale than they would have ever been.

Image: Gucci “Welcome to Twinsburg" Spring Summer 2023


What is the future of the fashion show?

As of 2023, we have seen it all: the hybrid fashion show, direct and live on social platforms, the traditional shows, the digital shows, and the boundary-breaking shows. The demand is getting higher as each show passes by and there are also questions left to ask about how the fashion show system is working, in favor of creativity, market, ethnicity, and environment. The future is unpredictable, but it is safe to say for the next decade:

The show must go on…

Despite the debunking of unnecessary and some brands prefer store events to catwalk shows, Fashion Shows will continue to thrive. In both physical and digital platforms. Fashion shows are not only for known fashion houses, it is also opportunities for new designers and new models to show their potential and make their way in a growing competitive industry.

If you’re not known in the industry, the only place to really be launched is on a runway. Where else can you be in a room with the most influential people in the industry who can actually elevate your career? The top editors are there. The buyers are there. The press is there. Social media is there. (Ivan Bart -IMG Models’ president)

Image: Coperni AW 2023

Digital shows are predicted to be dominant in the next decade, but cannot replace IRL experience. Fashion, at its core, is about emotions and connections, so in the saturated fashion industry, it is stressed that the more authentic the shows are, the more memorable they would be. And human connection is one that should never be overlooked.


More diversity and support community

Current Fashion Shows are no longer reserved only for VIPs and Insiders, but instead starting to tailor their guest lists, to what they feel necessary for the shows. Alexandre de Betak, the founder of Bureau Betak and longtime show producer, who consulted on the Jacquemus show, mentioned that “crowds should be tailored to serve the purpose of the brand – i.e., if a brand is strong at luxury retail, more buyers. If it’s a press play, more editors. If it’s a hangout, make sure to invite the friends of the designers.”

And the list could go on to the public, who would always anticipate being in a show, evidenced by all the sold-out tickets in Diesel Show SS 23 and VITELLI Maglieria AW 23.

Image: Tomo Koizumi AW23 supported by Dolce & Gabbana

For emerging designers, resources to start up or organize independent shows are extremely limited. However, with backup from organizations like Afro Milano, Camera Nazionale Della Moda, British Fashion Council, CFDA, Kennedy’s Fashion East, etc… or fashion houses like Dolce& Gabbana, Valentino, and other fashion houses that established their own education system. Designers now and will have more opportunities to show their visions on the runway. These practices need to go beyond the fashion capitals and should be open to all emerging designers, government should also play part in nurturing local/ international talents who wish to show their collections.


Rising of breaking boundaries shows

Fashion shows are creative outlets, a place where designers bring their visions/ stories of the season closer to the customers. Whether it is art immersive, exhibitions, or multimedia shows. Fashion shows are moving away from their traditional momentum and paving their way to fresher and more engaging ideas.

Think about the effect of Jacquemus, how they created an “off-fashion” show in Spring Summer 2020, think about Coperni Spring 2023 with their iconic Bella Hadid and the spray-painted dress moment, or about Anrealage Fall 2023 RTW UV light-changing garment, Heliot Emil’s Instagrammable “burning man” runway moment, etc… these are just a few examples of how rich the future would look like for the fashion shows.


Pushing for sustainable Fashion Shows

Sustainability is essential for longevity. It goes hand in hand with every single detail in the fashion industry. From the production process, and purchasing habits, to fashion shows. With elaborate single-use sets, the carbon footprint of international travel, and the traditional schedule that keeps production going, it begs the question of whether it is still appropriate to keep these events going. What some of the brands like Marine Serre, Gabriela Hearst, Anifa Mvuemba, and Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean-Raymond have been doing: using less impactful/recycled props or bringing the shows fully digital or changing the traditional format into a gallery presentation like Batsheva Hay did for NYFW 2023, would become common practices for the upcoming seasons. After all, fashion shows are the direct communication channel, from the industry to the world, so to do it loud, right, and better should be what brands heading for when it comes to present collections.

Image: Emerging designer Matthew Williams in the exhibition he art directed – titled Showcase With A Difference – at The Lab E20, a creative space co-created by Raeburn to foster responsible design and knowledge-sharing. Courtesy of Fashion Revolution


The future of fashion shows holds so much potential and more viral moments will surely come, but challenges and questions about the rooted system remained. How will fashion brands live up to their commitment? How will the newcomers strike their spots? How will the fashion show system change for the better? And how will we, the viewers, and consumers, contribute to more prolonged and sustainable showcases?

What do you think about the post? Leave a comment down below, and let’s discuss this topic.


Written by Shelby N




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